Assembly
Plan about an hour. The stand bolts together quickly, and the main job is lifting the ceramic body onto it.
- Build the stand where the grill will live, on a flat, level surface.
- Use two people to lift the ceramic; hold the body, never the bands or hinge.
- Check that the dome closes evenly and the gasket meets all the way round before the first fire.
- Run a moderate first fire to let the gasket settle before going to searing heat.
Lifting the ceramic onto the stand is a two-person job.
Lighting and fuel
Use hardwood lump with a natural starter cube or an electric starter. Skip lighter fluid, which can leave off flavors in porous ceramic. Briquettes make more ash, which can choke airflow in a small firebox.
Loading and lighting the lump
- Load: fill to just under the grate for long cooks; a smaller pile works for steaks.
- Light: one spot in the center for low and slow, two or three spots for searing.
- Settle: leave the dome open for about 10 minutes after lighting, then close it and let the ceramic stabilize before cooking.
Adding fuel mid-cook
The folding sides on the grate let you drop extra lump in mid-cook without lifting the whole grate. For tips on choosing charcoal and wood, see our wood chips and chunks guide.
Shutting down
Close both vents fully. The fire starves and goes out, and leftover lump relights next time. Never pour water on hot ceramic; it can crack.
Cleaning and care
- Grate: brush it while warm (see how to clean grill grates).
- Ash: scoop it out once cold. Ash build-up is the most common cause of a fire that won't get hot.
- Interior: a hot, empty burn cleans the ceramic. No soap or water inside.
- Metal parts: oil the cast iron top vent and wipe the stand after rain so they don't rust.
- Cover: none is included. Buy one sized for 15-inch kamados and close the top vent when the grill is off.
For cold months, follow our winterizing checklist.
What to cook first
Start with something short at a moderate heat, like chicken thighs or a spatchcocked small chicken. It teaches you how slowly the ceramic responds and how the vents behave before you risk an expensive cut.
- First week: chicken or sausages at a moderate temperature, to learn the vents.
- Second cook: a steak night with the reverse sear, to learn how fast the fire climbs.
- Then: a pizza on a stone, and only after that an overnight pork shoulder.
On a small grill, the gap between "settled" and "too hot" is narrower than on an 18-inch kamado, because there is less ceramic soaking up heat. Make smaller vent moves than you think you need.
Accessories worth buying
The box holds only the essentials, so plan for a few extras. Check that anything you buy is sized for 13- to 15-inch kamados; parts for 18-inch models won't fit.
| Accessory | Why it helps |
|---|
| Heat deflector or 13-inch pizza stone | Needed for indirect smoking, roasting and pizza |
| Fitted cover | Protects the gasket, top vent and stand from rain |
| Two-probe thermometer | Reads the grate and the food, not the dome air |
| Ash tool and small grate lifter | Clears ash and lets you add fuel safely |
| Heat-resistant gloves | Lets you move a hot stone or grate |
Running costs and warranty
Lump charcoal is the main ongoing cost, and a small firebox uses less of it than a big kamado. Because you shut the vents to put the fire out, leftover lump relights next time, so a bag lasts longer than on a steel grill. Budget for a replacement gasket every few seasons if you cook hot often; it is the part most kamado owners replace first.
The seller does not publish clear warranty terms on its listings. Keep your order record, register the grill if the paperwork allows it, and check the listing's return window before you buy. Inspect the ceramic for chips or cracks as soon as it arrives, while a return is still easy.